December 12, 2008

Trek to the Tiger Cave Temple, Krabi, Thailand

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Krabi's Tiger Cave Temple



At the 300th step I’m panting. It doesn’t help that some of the steps are so high I have to raise my knees into the air like a polevaulter. The high temperature and humidity add to the fun on my slog to the top of Tiger Cave Temple (Wat Thumsua) in Krabi, Southern Thailand’s so-called 'enchanted province'. I drink lots of water, grip the hand rail and, as gibbons weave past me, heave myself up the staircase built into a very steep wooded valley surrounded by cliffs. I’m beginning to have doubts about whether I will reach the top, take some pictures and make it back for my taxi pickup in 90 minutes.

The distance between the breaks I take narrows. Drenched in sweat, I’m feeling giddy. However, the end comes early because there are just 1,200 steps - not 'more than 2,000' as Frommer’s travel guide claims. Thanks be to Buddha - represented in gorgeous and almost garish splendour by one colossal figure and a golden team of clones gleaming in the twilight. The view is as striking as any I have seen. Picture mangrove forests offset by rubber and palm-oil plantations. On the horizon lie the inner Andaman islands. They are predominant in Theravada Buddhism, which is mainly practiced in SE Asia and which maybe contributes to the fact that Thai people, most of whom adhere to these beliefs, are amongst the most content in the world. The Tiger Cave Temple is considered by Krabi’s Buddhists to be one of the most sacred sites in the province. Even for those who are not religiously inclined there are some fascinating features here well worthy of a visit, which can include either a moderately strenuous or a very strenuous hike, depending on which of two staircases you choose. The view from the top, combined with the lovely Buddhist statuary, make the summit of the hill an unforgettably and serenely beautiful place. Sunset ascents are becoming increasingly popular, especially at a full moon, when it is possible to see the sun setting the islands in the Andaman Sea on fire in the west, while a golden moon rises over the Krabi lowlands in the east. The cave temple is aptly named because of the rock outgrowth nearby, which resembles a tiger’s claw.

Tiger Cave Temple is a center for meditation, its spectacular setting in the Ao Luk Thanu mountain ranges providing the tranquillity necessary for meditation. The main vihara or holy of holies is inside a small shallow limestone cave, of which both sides are lined by monastic cells, like caves, called kutis. The well-lit and well-maintained temple compound is currently home to some 250 monks and nuns. This little forest reserve was spared from logging by the monks ordaining the largest trees and thereby thwarting any attempts at cutting them down. So as well as the human monks and nuns there are also a number of monks going by the name of “Phra Ton” - “Tree Monk” in Thai.

For a naturalist, the site is a microcosm of Krabi’s former natural environment. “Wonderful Tree”, not far from the main shrine and adorned in sacred cloth, may well have the largest root base of any tree remaining in Thailand. The whole area is full of caves and limestone rock formations. Archeologists have found remnants of ancient habitations as old as from the Stone Age. Stone tools, shards of pottery and beads and idols of clay have all been unearthed. All these bear testimony to the cultural heritage of the area.

December 11, 2008

Budget Travel - Try Thailand Trains For Cheap Asia Travel

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I love Thailand trains and they give you a retro experience and they are more interactive than a plane as you can walk around do things like take a shower or go to the restaurant car. I know of only one plane where it is possible to take a shower and that is going to cost you a few bucks for the privilege on the Airbus A380 in first class.

You can take trains to the north almost to Myanmar or you can go into Malaysia if you are heading south, or you can get off and head to the holiday resorts near Phuket or the Gulf of Thailand beach resorts on the Thai Gulf coast.

When buying your tickets you want to have a bottom bunk and you want a car that is further back in the train, the further the better as you will be listing to the horn all night if you are at the front of the train. If you can afford first class and there are two of traveling then it is worth paying a little extra as you sleep better knowing that the door is locked and you trust everyone in the compartment. In 2nd class I always sleep with half an eye open even though I have never has a problem.

I figured out with sleeping on a boat that it is more comfortable sleeping in the direction of travel beam to stern as opposed to across the travel direction. It works out the same on a train as the Rocking side to side is reduced when you are sleeping with the direction of the train. There is more force stopping and starting then side to side so the first class is not better in that regard as far as sleeping is concerned. If there is a lot of rocking you are tense all night trying to keep your balance.

Things to bring to help stretch the budget with would your own coffee or tea which ever that you prefer. I buy Nescafe in the single serve packets, they last for ever and they take no space and it could not be easier to prepare. They are also a great deal at a touch over 3 baht a cup that works out to $0.20.

As they have hot water available on most trains in Asia I also purchase a cup of soup, I always get that in a plastic rather than a paper container so I can reuse it for the couple of packages of ramen noodles that I buy as well. It is 14 baht for the cup of soup and 6 baht for the ramen about $0.20.

I always make a point of stopping for some munchies before I get to the train station to save money there as well. I am partial to orange slices maybe for you it is gummy bears. You will want something to snack on the long ride. They normally have a food steward that comes around as soon as you leave Bangkok offering a set dinner and breakfast, 150 for the dinner, and 90 for the breakfast. I always try to take a pass on that although asking others they find it to be a nice meal. I do however go to the dinning car and grab a plate of whatever and feed my computer electricity. The dinning car is usually very entertaining at night as the locals all sit around and drink cheap beer and cheaper whiskey which they will ask you to join in as well which I am sure will result in a few laughs on your way on the train in Thailand.

December 10, 2008

Budget Travel In Thailand: How To Travel In Thailand With Style And Without Bankruptcy

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Thailand was my first tourist destination outside Europe and North America. Based on the sage advice of my Thailand-experienced friends, I was sure that this paradise vacation would be carried out on ridiculous costs. However, back home, I have found out too late, that during my little Thailand adventure I have spent almost the same amount of money as one of my regular surges to Europe. If only I knew that carefully planning your trip to Thailand can manifest itself in huge savings. The following list includes some solid advice that can help those novice Thailand visitors to save significant amounts of cash and still enjoy their vacation:

1. Season choice. Traveling in Thailand Islands during the low season can save you up to 25% of the accommodation costs (up to 25$ per bungalow per night if you choose high standard – not luxury - accommodation). Similar to many other world locations that are based operate seasonally; there is a significant price fluctuation across seasons. Not less important is that fact that the weather in Thailand is quite pleasant even during the low season. The temperatures’ difference between the “hot season” and the “peak season” is miniscule, and during the “wet season” one can experience only a mild occasional rain. Therefore, in Thailand one can lower accommodation costs by avoiding the peak season without paying the price of suffering from unbearable cold or coping with endless monsoon.

2. Transportation. Getting from Bangkok to your final destination in one of the Southern Islands by train or bus instead of by plane can save you up to 80$ each way. You can save a bundle if you arrive to Bangkok International Airport in the evening. In this case you save, besides the gap between relatively expensive airfare and train or bus ticket, the first night’s accommodation cost as well (40$ - 100$ per bungalow per night in high standard – not luxury - accommodation).

3. Food. In Western style countries, the more you pay for your dinner the better it is, so everyone can make a personal decision about getting an appropriate cost – benefit balance. In Thailand, and especially in the Southern Islands it is much simpler: in most cases, the cheaper the better. Expensive restaurants in Thailand Islands usually specialize on Western food that is neither authentic nor of superior taste; a standard dinner will cost you 10$ - 30$ in a restaurant of this kind. Alternatively, the dinner in a cheap restaurant with plastic chairs will cost you 3$ - 8$ and it is usually both tasty and authentic. My most disappointing Thai dinner was served in a fancy restaurant in Bangkok and had cost 120$ for a couple, whereas my best dinner was served in a cheap family restaurant in Koh Phangan. The owner - young mom named Mam – prepared the meal for us exactly as we wished it would be and charged us with measly 5-6$ per person.

4. Air Conditioning. The presence of air conditioning in your room can make a huge difference in accommodation rates. For example, the same room rates in the same resort can vary from 15$-30$ for a bungalow with a fan to 40$ - 100$ for an air-conditioned bungalow. Although choosing an air-conditioned room during the hot season (such as March – April) is crucial, if you visit Southern Thailand during the rainy season – a bungalow with a fan can both satisfy your needs and cut your expenses in more than a half.

5. Location choice. Similar to the principle held in most places in the world, the accommodation rates in Thailand Islands depend on your location choice. The bungalow in the central beach, close to the airport or seaport full of thriving nightlife will probably be twice as expensive as the same bungalow in a remote quiet beach. However, accessibility is an issue in the Thailand Islands, and the taxi fares and taxi boat fares operate under the same principal as the accommodation rates. So there is a rule you may adopt: if you are looking for social activities and busy nightlife– stay close to the airport or seaport; otherwise make a little effort and move after your arrival to a remote beach. You will save up to 60% on the accommodation rates this way.

6. Communication. It will probably not come as a complete shock, but the use of cellular phone from outside of Thailand could be extremely expensive. To save on communication costs you can either buy a local cellular phone with prepaid SIM card or use the Telephone & Internet centers services. Mind you that the cost of these services may vary. As usual, if you’re calling overseas from your resort’s office – it will be more expensive than using a call center in the town. The cheapest solution is probably giving your phone number to your friends or relatives overseas since every call center has a phone number that can be used for calling back.

7. Price negotiation. In tourist locations in Thailand negotiation is a necessity or a way of life. Likewise, in the less touristy islands and areas price bargaining is accepted as well. Just try it – in Thailand price negotiation isn’t considered an embarrassing behavior, so you have nothing to lose.

8. Psychology. Although, in Thailand everything is perceived to be cheaper than in your home country, don’t be fooled by the seemingly low prices and control your expenses. Buying an enormous amount of inexpensive things can really add up to a surprisingly large sum of money.

During my last visit to Thailand, I followed these guidelines with persistence and I was happy to disclose, that budget travel in Thailand can be more than just an economical issue, it can also be enjoyable. Interestingly enough, in Thailand, the less you spend – the closer you get to the local authentic experience.

December 9, 2008

Chedi Phra Si Suriyothai (เจดีย์พระศรีสุริโยทัย),

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* Chedi Phra Si Suriyothai (เจดีย์พระศรีสุริโยทัย), the memorial for the first heroine in Siamese history, is located in Ko Mueang to the west. Among various places of interest within the Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Park, this ancient place is of much importance as a proof of honour that ancient Thai society gave to Thai women.

Phra Si Suriyothai was the royal consort of Phra Mahachakkraphat. In 1548, only 7 months after being crowned as king, he was challenged by a Burmese attack under the supervision of Phrachao Tabeng Chaweti and his warlord, Burengnong. The Burmese army intruded into the kingdom through the Three Pagoda Pass in Kanchanaburi and came to set up military camps around the royal compound. During the fighting on elephant back, Phra Mahachakkaraphat faced danger. Phra Si Suriyothai, clad in a warrior’s suit, interrupted the fighting with the intention to provide assistance for her husband. She rode her elephant in the way of Phrachao Prae, a Burmese commander, and was cut to death by his sword. After the end of the war, Phra Mahachakkraphat arranged a funeral and established the cremation site to be a temple named “Wat Sopsawan”.

In the reign of King Rama V, there was a quest for the historical sites as mentioned in the Royal Chronical. The exact location of Wat Sopsawan was identified with a large indented stupa which was renamed by King Rama VI as Chedi Phra Si Suriyothai.

In 1990, the government assigned the Fine Arts Department and the National Security Command to restore the chedi, which had deteriorated over time. Fortunately, on 20 May 1990, some antique objects were found such as a white rock crystal Buddha image in the posture of subduing Mara, a chedi replica, and a golden reliquary. These ancient objects were brought to be under the care of the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.

* Si Suriyothai Park (สวนศรีสุริโยทัย) is located within the area of the Ayutthaya liquor plant adjacent to Chedi Phra Si Suriyothai. On its total area of 5 rai, there is a common building, a Somdet Phra Si Suriyothai pavilion, a mound with marble Semas (boundary stones of a temple) aged over 400 years where the fragmented parts of Buddha images taken from Wat Phutthaisawan were buried, etc. The Liquor Distillery Organisation, who sponsored the construction of the park, wished to devote all good deeds in transforming the former inner part of the royal compound to all of the late kings who used to live here before. King Rama IX graciously named the park “Suan Si Suriyothai” on 25 May, 1989. Then, the park was conferred to Her Majesty Queen Sirikit on the eve of Her 60th birthday anniversary. The park opens daily for the public from 9.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m.

* Somdet Phra Suriyothai Monument (พระราชานุสาวรีย์ สมเด็จพระศรีสุริโยทัย – ทุ่งมะขามหย่อง): Located on a plain known as Thung Makham Yong on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River at Tambon Ban Mai, approximately 3-4 kilometres to the northeast of the city island of Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya. There is a life-size and a half bronze statue of Queen Suriyothai on the neck of her war elephant as well as another 49 associated sculptures, models of historical events, a huge reservoir and a public park. This plain was once a battlefield for several Siam–Burmese wars in the past. One of the heroic deeds that took place here was Queen Suriyothai’s fight to save her husband, King Maha Chakraphat. She was killed on her elephant’s neck by the King of Burma. In another later war 2 years after King Naresuan the Great declared independence, the Burmese king sent his son to station here at Thung Makham Yong whereas the king himself led his army to position to the south of the plain. King Naresuan, with a sword in his mouth led his soldiers to climb the wooden pole wall into the Burmese king’s camp in many successful plunders. His sword was named “Phra Saeng Dap Khap Khai” in reminiscence of his victories.

As a historical battlefield of such great significance, a monument of Somdet Phra Suriyothai was constructed under Her Majesty Queen Sirikit’s suggestion. Funding was provided jointly by the government and Thai people. The monument was constructed in honour of Her Majesty the Queen to mark her sixtieth birthday anniversary in 1992.

December 8, 2008

Wat Phutthaisawan (วัดพุทไธสวรรย์)

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Wat Phutthaisawan (วัดพุทไธสวรรย์) is the monastery situated on the river bank opposite Ko Mueang to the south. Travel by car along the route Ayutthaya-Sena to the west of Ko Mueang. After passing the bridge in front of Wat Kasattrathirat, turn left to Wat Chaiwatthanaram. Follow the direction signs, you will find a left turn to Wat Phutthaisawan. This monastery was built in the area where King U-Thong moved to establish his city. The area was first known as Wiang Lek, named after the royal palace of King U-Thong. The most interesting part of Wat Phutthaisawan is the great principal Buddha image; its style is of the early Ayutthaya Period.
 

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