October 25, 2008

Owning a Pub in Chiang Mai - Easy Money or Hard Work?


For more than 3 years, I was the owner of The Doors Music Pub in Chiang Mai. I never forget the regular customers, who were mostly backpackers or young people who appreciated good music and a hassle-free and laid-back atmosphere. Many of them stayed in Chiang Mai for 3 months and when visiting my bar, they always told me that the life I lived is what they could only dream of.

Some of them even became determined to start a bar of their own, wanting to permanently return to Chiang Mai as soon as they had saved a nice stash of money back home. Usually I just talked along with them, and I knew it was just bar talk. Opening a successful pub is a hell of a job. The competition is severe and often Thai law does not protect your business.

It is more than 4 years ago when I finally decided to close my music pub, not because I didn’t earn enough money but mainly due to issues I was too fed up to cope with any longer. From all these customers with their brilliant ideas, not one soul returned. I guess it was not that easy for them to leave their family and friends and start a new life on the other side of the world.

I truly fully enjoyed each day of my pub’s existence and I can say without doubt that it was the best time of my life. It was so cool sharing my passion for The Doors’ timeless music and Jim Morrison’s poetry with so many, young and old free-spirited people and enthusiastic fans coming from all over the globe. Online Chiang Mai nightlife resource

Another pleasure was working together with my motivated team of three beautiful and spontaneous young Akha ladies. These girls were reliable and dedicated until the last day my pub was open. Sure! It was also neat to get slightly drunk many nights, together with new mates, and play the visitors’ requested tracks all night. Twice every year, I still meet three customers who I became good friends with during the time I had my pub.

Unfortunately, there are also negative things about running a bar which occasionally I had to deal with. There were wasted customers who behaved disrespectfully towards my staff. Some customers stole music books, ashtrays and even removed posters from the wall. Sometimes it was very hard to make loaded customers leave when it was closing time and once in a while there were stingy customers who managed to sneak out without paying the bill.

The Thai police is another topic which deserves to be mentioned here. Three different kinds of policemen used to pay my pub regular visits. Every month, a policemen dressed in civilian clothes came to collect the money I ‘owned’ him for ‘protection’. The first time he came by, he told me what day of the month I could expect him and the amount of money I had to pay. After the first meeting, the officer - always wearing sunglasses - never spoke again. He just looked at me while ticking his pen against the wooden bar. Well, I understood the silent message.

The bar next to me was run by two Thai girls and they had severe financial problems. After not paying the police for 2 months, they were forced to close the bar until they could pay their debt. One day a group of Thais started to play cards in their bar and only a few minutes later two policemen suddenly popped in and ‘arrested’ the law-breaking gamblers while the owners were ordered to close their joint and step into a police car.

Another officer from the tourist police visited my bar almost every Saturday at the end of his shift. It seemed he was very interested in one of my staff and always gave her compliments about her beautiful face and perfect body. He even gave her his phone number and asked if she was willing to go out with him sometime. He always drank several Thai whiskies but never paid for the drinks when he left, saying that I could ask him for help if I ever had any problems.

Finally, two times per year my bar got unannounced invaded by a group of very rude policemen. These men opened every drawer and cupboard, checked the ownership documents, cigarettes and whiskey license and my staff’s ID cards. One of them always had a long phone conversation with my Thai wife, who officially owned the bar. The usual questioning I had to undergo lasted for 1 hour. Questions included; why is your Thai wife not here? Do you have work permit? Do you serve customers? How much salary do you pay your staff? Why don’t you employ Thai girls (‘my girls’ being Akha hill tribe girls)? Each time they told me that if they ever saw me serving one customer, I would have to pay a huge fine.

I can happily say that running The Doors Music Pub was the most exciting time of my life, and I don’t regret one single day that my pub was open. Extensive Chiang Mai travel info I would even consider opening another pub again one day. If you’re not demoralised, why not go for it and open that special Chiang Mai bar.

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