After a month away, I was surprised to see the face of Hat Ton Sai had changed significantly. Two new restaurants had sprung up where there had previously been only wreckage, travelers were beginning to return, a brand new concrete and glass tourist information booth was finished being rebuilt, and a host of new lights and decorations adorned the beachfront bars. Even the Freedom Bar had a new look to it, although they were still playing the same Bob Marley tracks as they were the day we left. Rai Leh and Phra Nang were obviously enjoying the influx of beach-goers as well. Numerous locals were able to re-open their shops and return to selling food, clothing, and jewelry on the beach.
Upon first arriving on Ton Sai three weeks after the tsunami, it was uplifting to hear the stories of how the climbers did not partake in the mass exodus after the destruction, but instead stayed to help. Many of those who were here on December 26th and who witnessed the devastation firsthand, pitched in to help clean the beaches and salvage what they could recover from the damage. It quickly became apparent however, that there was only so much the foreigners could do. More than one climber observed that it was obvious that some of the beachfront businesses had financial backing from elsewhere and were being quickly rebuilt, while many of the local operations had lost everything and had no means of recovering. It had reached the point where the Thais had to do things on their own.
"What were we going to do? It's not like we could just go and rebuild their businesses for them?" said one climber who had escaped the wave by climbing a ladder on Ton Sai wall--next to the Freedom Bar--to gain the safety of a small ledge from which other climbs began. Climbers were offering to help, but several of the locals had simply given up and needed time to sort their lives out.
Thank you banner
Thank-you banner
By the time we arrived, life had returned to some semblance of normality. Less than twenty lives were lost on the Phra Nang peninsula (an area including Ton Sai, Rai Leh, and Phra Nang beach), mostly fishermen and a few kayakers out at sea at the time. The families of the fishermen were being cared for by the community and the general feeling around the area was one of wanting to move on. This normally would have been the busy season of the year and the locals were struggling to recover during a massive drop in tourist traffic. My girlfriend and I had arrived with grand plans of being able to help out and make a difference, but were frustrated that it seemed as though there was nothing we could do.
We soon learned that the best way for us to help was simply being there. The Thais continued with their usual humor and playfulness, and seemed incredibly happy to receive nothing more than our business. No one was looking for a handout; they simply wanted to earn the means to get things back to normal.
Once we left Krabi and continued on our travels we began to hear stories of how other areas were faring after the tsunami. We should not have been surprised to hear that along with all the good that was happening, came more than a few horror stories. The newspapers wrote of land encroachment by large resorts 'rebuilding' in places they had previously not been allowed. Locals who had lost everything were also not being allowed to return to the land they had previously occupied because they had no proof of ownership (*See note at bottom of page). Families who lost loved ones received no financial compensation because the bodies were never recovered and their stories of loss were not believed. There was even a case of a man from the UK who was arrested and charged "with malicious communication and causing a public nuisance" [Source: BBC] for sending hoax emails to relatives of people missing following the tsunami. It seems he thought it a great joke to tell these people that their loved ones were dead.
Stories were told about encounters with organizations like the Red Cross who refused to send aid to various small communities and villages. Places, coincidentally, which saw little or no tourism. Don't worry though; Phuket has been completely rebuilt and the hotels are back to charging several hundred dollars per night.
I was told of one couple, he an engineer and she a nurse, whose offers to help went unnoticed. These people had specific skills which were needed, were offering to pay their own way, and asked nothing in return, yet had still not received a positive response regarding their numerous requests to help.
Floating Bait Box
Floating Bait Box
Thai government has also thrown up some roadblocks for those wishing to help. It is their policy that volunteer work is still work, and therefore requires volunteers to apply for a work visa. Many of the aid organizations were sending volunteers away and only looking for those willing to make a long term commitment and who have specific skills. There are valid reasons for this though. Despite how the world media (especially North American) has been portraying it, Thailand suffered relatively minor damage when compared to Sri Lanka and parts of Sumatra. Those areas where aid is being concentrated are recovering quickly and well into the process of recuperating from what material damage was done.
Despite the obstacles, and in spite of the negative actions of some corporations and individuals, there are still plenty of people out there donating their time and money to families, hospitals, orphanages, and small villages off the beaten path. While formal aid is being focused on centers of tourism, many foreigners are digging deeper and giving where it is really needed. With any luck, the renewal on Ton Sai is being reflected in numerous places in Southeast Asia and every day will bring a bit of hope to those still lacking.
*Note: There is much debate about this due to the fact that places like the island of Phi Phi had become rather unsightly. Some say that Thailand has fairly generous squatter's rights and, to use Ko Phi Phi again, some places were overwhelmed by Thais who squeezed in a small business where they could. Many argue that the Thai government is doing a good thing by attempting to not allow these areas to become as congested and 'touristy' as they once were.
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